The kitchen is full of tricks that make life easier. And those only come with practice and experience, or by learning from those who know. Mothers, grandmothers and chefs know a lot about the subject, so it’s worth paying attention to their advice. In particular, this tip comes from the Valencian José Luis García Berlanga, chef and owner of Berlanga, a restaurant specialising in rice dishes in the heart of Madrid (opposite El Retiro).
And indeed, cooking rice is easy, but attaining excellent rice is not so straightforward, and it takes time to get it right—whether you’re aiming for a simple fluffy white rice or a delicious paella. One reason is that there are different varieties of rice and the starch content of each variety determines how you should cook it. Aside from this, there’s another equally important question tied to this traditional Valencian dish: how do you calculate the right amount of rice so you don’t run short or end up with leftovers?
The foolproof trick: the extra handful
If you’ve ever had paella in a restaurant, you’ve probably noticed that when calculating portions, one or two servings are often deducted. After all, paella has long been famous for being quite filling, so you might find yourself ordering rice for six when there are seven or eight of you, and that’s even more so if there are children among the group. It’s also true that paellas in the past tended to be a bit greasier (but equally tasty), which contributed to their heft.
What happens if you’re cooking at home is that you may end up with enough rice for a small army, or the opposite scenario: too little rice. When you’re about to cook paella, calculate two handfuls of rice per person. If you want a precise technical guide, each handful equals 50 grams of rice.
And this is where the regaeta comes in, which Berlanga mentions when asked about his culinary tricks, a habit my friend Piluca told me about, who in turn heard it from her mother and grandmother, a tradition passed down through generations. So what is the regaeta? It is the two extra handfuls added on top, a quantity that equates to a portion—the “just in case” or “better to have too much than too little” approach.
Other tricks to make paella come out perfectly
First and foremost, and this applies to any cooking recipe, is that the higher the quality of the ingredients, the better the paella will be. And that certainly includes the rice, which should bear the D.O. Arròs de València seal. There are two varieties particularly suited to paella: Sénia and Albufera.
The Sénia variety has a high absorption capacity, so it soaks up all the flavour of the stock, but it can overdo it, so handle with care. The Albufera variety is a blend of Sénia and Bomba varieties. It also absorbs well but tolerates overcooking better. Finally, fresh vegetables and three spices: paprika, saffron, and rosemary.
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